How I Create a Landscape
SECTION 1
Generalizations of the shoot
Since I shoot raw I will be using color enhancement filters, a polarizing filter, and various color temperature settings.
Whenever I make an image the first thing that I approach is mental positioning. I stress this because I find it difficult to be creative in a non-creative mindset.
I can discuss the following at great length but that is an issue apart from this tutorial. The right side of the brain is the creative side and the left side is the application side of the brain. So when planning a shoot I first relax and allow my mind to wander while I ponder the shoot. I visualize of what I might like to create an image.
There are five things that I consider when making an image.
1. What?
2. Why?
3. Where?
4. When?
5. How?
I put these five things into consideration whether shooting fixed lens or view camera. Let’s take them one at a time
1. What?
The first thing that must be decided is of what do I want to create an image? Do I want to do trees, rivers, cliffs, mountains, roads, etc.
2. Why? I always ask myself “What is the purpose of making this picture?” Without purpose creativity is impaired.
3. Where? Where must I go to find the scene I wish to photograph?
4. When? When would be the best time of day to create the image?
And what is the point of focus,.
5. How? How do I physically go about creating the image?
SECTION 2
FIXED LENS CAMERA
For our purposes here I will be referring to my Canon 20d.
Having made the first 4 decisions I can now do the mechanics of the photograph.
I mount the camera on the tripod.
The first adjustment that I make is color temperature.
For daylight I use 5200 kv (kelvins)
For cloudy, twilight, and sunset I use 6000kv
For shade I use 7000kv
Next, I compose the scene through my composing card, a 5”x7” card with a 4”x5” hole in the center. This is so I can be very creative. I can position the scene at ground level, waist level, eye level, or even higher if I have a ladder.
Having decided on the scene I then position the camera to capture that scene.
Then I determine if I need to enhance the red, green, or blue of the scene. If so I mount the appropriate color enhancement filter to the lens.
I then decide if I need to use a polarizing or perhaps a neutral density filter (filters will be discussed in a separate tutorial) and if so I mount it on the lens.
Next I set the ISO speed.
Using a hand held external light meter (mine is a LunaPro SBC) I then meter the shot. My meter tells me the correct offsets for the amount of filtering that I have used. I find it to be very accurate and this is why I prefer to use an external hand-held light meter.
My next step is a judgmental one where I decide what parts of the picture I want to be in sharp focus. Having decided this, I then set my aperture and shutter speed to reflect my depth of field choice. (I will discuss depth of field in a separate tutorial.)
Having made all of these adjustments I focus the camera, recheck everything and then do the least photographic thing in the process. I click the shutter!
SECTION 3
Monorail view camera
For our purposes here I will be referring to my Sinar 4x5 monorail view camera to which I have attached my Canon 20d body and my Rodenstock 180/550mm lens which is attached to a Cobal 1 shutter. The lens is manually adjusted from f5.6 to f64. The exposure time aka shutter speed is controlled by the 20d.
Having made the first 4 decisions of section 1, I can now do the mechanics of the photograph.
I mount the camera on the tripod.
The first adjustment that I make is color temperature.
For daylight I use 5200 kv (kelvins)
For cloudy, twilight, and sunset I use 6000kv
For shade I use 7000kv
Next, I compose the scene through my composing card, a 5”x7” card with a 4”x5” hole in the center. This is so I can be very creative. I can position the scene at ground level, waist level, eye level, or even higher if I have a ladder.
Having decided on the scene I then position the camera to capture that scene.
Then I determine if I need to enhance the red, green, or blue of the scene. If so I mount the appropriate color enhancement filter to the lens.
I then decide if I need to use a polarizing or perhaps a neutral density filter (filters will be discussed in a separate tutorial) and if so I mount it on the lens.
Next I set the ISO speed.
Using a hand-held external light meter (mine is a LunaPro SBC) I then meter the shot. My meter tells me the correct offsets for the amount of filtering that I have used. I find it to be very accurate and this is why I prefer to use an external hand-held light meter.
Now comes the difference. With the view camera there are a multitude of adjustments to affect the final image.
First I set the camera in the basic position that I have chosen for the exposure. Then I set the front and rear standards to their middle position and zero out all other settings.
I next adjust the rise and/or fall of the front and rear standards.
Next I adjust the shift on the front and rear standards when necessary.
Now I rough focus the image.
Next I adjust the front tilt which is used to augment depth of field. This movement does not affect the position of the image on the sensor
Next the back tilt. This movement does affect the position of the image on the sensor and is generally used to enlarge or reduce the foreground.
There are times when the only place the tripod can be put is off to one side or the other from ideal. With the slide function you can move the lens to the right or left to better center the image. When necessary this is my next move.
Just as the front and rear tilts can adjust vertical convergence, the front and rear swing function adjust horizontal convergence. So this is the next thing that I check.
Now I do the final focus. On my camera there is a fine focus adjustment which minisculy allows the final positioning of the lens.
After I have done all of these steps I say a little prayer and click the shutter.
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